Umbrian pasta alla norcina
Umbria has a unique culinary history—it’s the only landlocked region in Italy, and its cuisine relies heavily on foraged ingredients. Oh, and pork. Lots and lots of pork. This recipe is an ultimate classic, but I know my veg heads out here will be bummed to see this ingredient list. No stress—Umbrian ‘cucina povera’ (peasant cooking) is rustic at its heart, meaning swapping ingredients in and out based on what’s available (or what you prefer to eat) will still yield a lovely, hearty meal. Replace the sausages with mushrooms for a vegetarian version of the dish that’s still true to Umbria.
INGREDIENTS
2-3 Italian pork sausages OR 1 lb fresh mushrooms
1 medium onion
1-2 black truffles (optional)
1 cup cream
1/2 glass white wine
½ cup grated pecorino or more to taste
3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
salt for pasta water and to taste
black pepper to taste
METHOD
Remove the casing from the sausages and crumble the meat filling. If using mushrooms, clean the mushrooms. Peel and chop the onion. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta, add salt and bring to the boil again.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan or skillet over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it starts to soften then add the crumbled sausage meat.
Brown the sausage, while stirring with a wooden spatula to prevent it from sticking. If using mushrooms, add the mushrooms to the pan. Let them cook until they release their juices and start to brown. Pour in the wine. Allow the alcohol to evaporate while stirring. Lower the heat, cover, and finish cooking the sausage or mushrooms in their own juices for 10 minutes
Uncover, taste and season with salt and pepper as required. Pour in the cream and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Add a few truffle shavings (if using) and half the pecorino. Reduce the sauce for 3–4 minutes, then turn off the heat, cover and set aside.
Cook the pasta in the salted boiling water until al dente according to the instructions. Save some of the pasta cooking water (one or two ladles worth) and drain the pasta. Add it to the pan with the sausage and cream sauce. Over a low heat, mix the pasta and sauce together–you can add a little pasta cooking water if it seems too thick, keeping in mind that it will congeal a bit as soon as it starts to cool.
Serve immediately with a generous sprinkling of grated pecorino, some freshly ground black pepper and truffle shavings if you’re going all-out. I know you’re tempted to use truffle oil, but don’t do it. The flavors are way too aggressive. Truffle salt, on the other hand, can be a decent substitute for those of us who don’t want to splurge on the real deal.
INGREDIENT NOTES
Umbrian culinary culture prides itself on its butchery heritage. They take it extremely seriously, and the rest of Italy gives them a lot of respect for their mastery of the craft. We suggest you visit Highland Butcher, right here in Somerville, for all your butchery needs—from sausages to sirloins. Michael, the owner, is a serious craftsman with a passion for sourcing hyper-local, humanely raised whole animals from small family farms. His meat is expensive. And it should be. A lot goes into raising an animal well, and the price, we feel, should reflect that work. Michael’s sausages are housemade and absolutely delicious—definitely head to him for this recipe.
If you’re going the veg route, our pal Tyler Akabane (aka @mushroomsformyfriends) is bar-none for the mushroom hookup, from wild to organic cultivated. Visit his shop, the aptly named Mushroom Shop, for fungi and an array of hard-to-find pantry staples, from chili crisp to farina. Capone Foods, right behind us, is a great resource for your Italian pantry staples. If you’re up for a trip, head to Gloucester and visit Danielle at Pastaio Via Corte—her shop is a haven for the rare + unusual when it comes to Italian cuisine, and she makes fresh pasta from heritage grains daily. Finally, give Curio Spice has some of the best peppercorns you can find. It might seem silly to fuss over peppercorns, but the flavor does make a huge difference.