ON THE BAR

you're invited.

Jul 24, 2024

Hello, friends.

I often talk/think about the ways in which east coast wine culture has to work a little harder to make connections between farmers and the glass—how our relative distance from physical sites of production (vineyards and cellars) prevents us from considering the hands that harvest, and crush, and rack, and how this separation keeps us from understanding the extreme risk of working with Mother Nature’s push and pull, (particularly for natural winemakers, who eschew the safety nets of chemicals and corrective agents). I never really got it until I started visiting winemakers, and I lament the limitations of space and time for those of us who don’t live a stone’s throw from Sonoma or the Loire.

In recognition of these gaps in understanding, the entire ethos of my work in wine has been to cultivate wonder and gratitude for these people and these places, and to act as a steward for the narratives of their labor. When we hire new team members, we hire them to be storytellers and champions, rather than sommeliers; I’d rather they know the name of the winemaker’s dog than the exact cepage of whatever we’re pouring by the glass.

And so! I’m extremely excited to support my old friend Max and his partner Katey in their labor to cultivate (literally and figuratively) vineyards and orchards at Chertok Wines in Vermont’s Champlain Valley—one of the most exciting and promising domestic wine regions, and one that’s just a short drive from Boston.

Join me on Saturday, August 3rd, for a field trip to visit and support our local wine community.

I’m excited about these wines—the co-ferments and qvevri-aged projects represent a progressive and adaptive approach to production that also happens to yield delicious results. Y’all love these wines, too, and now’s your chance to meet your maker in situ—take a tour of the cellar, drink, snack, and revel in the beauty of the landscape.

If you’ve never had a chance to visit a real natural winery (not a glass-and-stainless showroom à la Napa), here’s your chance to see how it’s done. You’ll also have the opportunity to support Max and Katey in their labor, as they raise funds through a Numarket campaign to ensure they can continue to build a place for themselves (and for our wine community) for years to come.

The hang goes from 4ish-7ish. There will be a tasting, snack, and good vibes. It’s free (but you should make a donation). Wear good shoes. Feel free to comment with questions, and if you can’t join us, drop a few dollars in their fundraiser—it’s the home stretch, and it’s linked here.

I do judge a winery by the beauty of its chickens.

WHAT I’M READING

Frost damage in German vineyards to cost millions (Chris Mercer for Decanter)

A reminder that the cost of climate change is very real (and very expensive). Many German producers we work with are planning to release back vintages (or nothing at all) as they grapple with the losses suffered in the vineyards this year. If you want to drink Riesling next year, buy it now.

The alcoholic beverage industry is leaning into AI in more ways than you think (John Kell for Fast Company)

A clunky headline, but a quick read. I hate AI for all the reasons everyone hates AI, but I can’t really hate that it could help winemakers anticipate the devastating impact of climate change mentioned above. “Analyzing consumer preferences” is always a dubious euphemism for “flooding the market with more of the same garbage,” however, so I still I hate that.

The Algorithm of the Mind (Alicia Kennedy for her newsletter, From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy)

My admiration for Alicia Kennedy’s mind is fairly endless, so when my own thoughts about cultural flattering coincided with her own earlier this month, I felt a little less tired. This is an exceptionally refreshing read about taste, overconsumption, and the romance of the esoteric, and I highly suggest you subscribe to her newsletter for some truly brilliant writing on food and culture (if, for some reason, you haven’t already).

WHAT I’M LISTENING TO

I was recently reminded of Xenia Rubinos’ “Mexican Chef”—an excellent bop that doubles as a takedown of immigrant labor in the service sector—while gazing into the open kitchen of a new “Coastal Italian” restaurant owned by a white guy. “Lonely Lover” is another favorite track from her 2016 album, Black Terry Cat. Enjoy.

SPECIAL SAUCE

This week is moving week at Wild Child, so the special sauce at Rebel Rebel will be an ad hoc endeavor. Over at Dear Annie, however, we’re pouring a selection of wines from beloved Cheverny winemaker Philippe Tessier. These are some of my own favorite wines made by one of my favorite people, and I hope you’ll pop by for a taste of something truly special.