Library Release: 2018 De Moor L'Humeur du Temps

+ Vouette & Sorbée, Balagny, Tessier and Octavin

Hi, friends.

We have an onslaught (?) of exceptional, classic natural wine heading our way. Some already landed, some is en route. And while I’ve struggled to find what feels like a good pace for explicitly wine-oriented newsletters here, I’ve gotten some positive feedback about some I’ve sent to our wine club recently, so I’m going to get into a more regular cadence.

I’m truly thrilled to be able to offer these wines to you; I’ve worked with all of them for the duration of my career—they’re both special to me and absolutely pivotal producers for the whole of the natural wine movement. Some of them are currently available for purchase at Wild Child, some are on their way, and some will only be available by the glass/bottle at Rebel Rebel and Dear Annie (sometimes I want you to enjoy these in situ, and I think this case in particular calls for it).

As always, if you have any questions about any of it, please comment here or reply to this email.

Thanks for riding the ride with me,

Lauren

LIBRARY RELEASE: 2018 De Moor “L’Humeur du Temps,’ Chablis

“L’Humeur du Temps” translates to the mood of the times (or weather)—a perfect name for this bottling, which reflects both the vintage and the evolution of Alice and Olivier De Moor’s cellar. It’s built from estate fruit that doesn’t quite fit into their single-vineyard lineup but is still farmed and vinified with the same care and philosophy.

This is not an “entry-level” wine. It’s a field recording: of place, of vintage, and of people who trust the land to guide the wine. It’s also a perennial favorite of mine–I recently opened this while gabbing and thought I was popping the cork on something else—the minute it hit my palate, without looking, I knew I’d pulled De Moor by mistake (if pulling De Moor could ever be a mistake, which it can’t). There’s nothing like De Moor.

2018 was a warm vintage, but in the hands of the Alice and Olivier, this wine keeps its edge. It’s generous without tipping into richness—a vintage that invites you in but doesn’t ask if you’ve eaten. Cool, crisp, and always serious.

We received a limited number of bottles, so pop by the shop or reserve yours here.

CULT CHAMPAGNE: Vouette & Sorbée

Bertrand Gautherot’s Vouette & Sorbée is one of the most singular domaines in Champagne. Located in the Aube (my preferred enclave for grower Champagne), where Kimmeridgian clay soils resemble nearby Chablis more than the Marne, Bertrand’s wines stand apart for their Burgundian approach to Champagne: biodynamic farming, single-vineyard cuvées, native yeast fermentations in oak, and no dosage. The result is deeply terroir-driven, vinous Champagne with remarkable precision and energy. These are wines of texture and structure—and they’ve been only intermittently available to us in Massachusetts over the past 15 years. I’m happy to have my hands on them again.

Vouette & Sorbée 'Fidèle' Extra Brut Champagne, Aube

'Fidèle' is Bertrand Gautherot’s flagship wine—a pure Pinot Noir from Kimmeridgian limestone soils in Buxières-sur-Arce, in the southern Aube. The result is a rosé Champagne of immense structure and depth. Deep color, distinct red fruits, forward and lush. Unmistakably vinous and lively.

Vouette & Sorbée 'Blanc d’Argile' Extra Brut Champagne, Aube

A Blanc de Blancs of rare intensity, 'Blanc d’Argile' is 100% Chardonnay grown on heavy clay soils (argile = clay), unusual in Champagne. The deep soils lend the wine its calling card power and intensity. This is a textured, mineral-driven Champagne with notes of lemon curd, white flowers, and chalk. Long, lean, and complex—a Champagne that ages gracefully but is absolutely thrilling now.

BOTTLES EN ROUTE

We have new releases from Alice Bouvot at Domaine de l’Octavin in the Jura and Simon and Philippe Tessier in Cheverny headed our way—these will be limited as usual, so to get early access, please reply to this email.

We’ll also be featuring the wines of the late, wonderful Beaujolais producer, Julie Balagny, at both Rebel Rebel and Dear Annie starting on Friday and through the weekend. Julie was an exceptional person and and extraordinary winemaker, and it’s an honor to be pouring some posthumous releases from her venerated estate. I hope you’ll join us in celebrating her life with a toast.

ONE MORE THING

A reader recently told me they like my music recs, so here you go!